Energy-saving tips
64 ways to cut your energy bill in Canada
Practical tips sorted by season and topic. 39 of them cost nothing. For bigger upgrades, the energy check-up ranks what pays off for your home.
Setbacks typically trim heating costs by a few percent per degree over a season. A smart or programmable thermostat makes it automatic.
Large recoveries in cold weather can trigger electric backup heat, which costs about two to three times more per unit of heat. Gentle setbacks keep the heat pump doing the work.
A clogged filter restricts airflow, makes the system run longer and can shorten equipment life. Filters are cheap and take a minute to swap.
Blocked vents unbalance airflow and leave some rooms cold, so people turn the thermostat up. Clearing them costs nothing.
Winter sun adds free heat through glass, and closed curtains reduce heat loss through windows after dark. The effect is modest but adds up across a season.
A technician can catch failing parts, clean burners or coils and confirm safe operation. Well-maintained equipment typically runs closer to its rated efficiency.
A buried or iced-over unit cannot move air and loses efficiency or shuts down. Keep at least 30 cm of clearance and make sure the base is raised above typical snow depth.
An open damper lets warm air escape up the chimney all day. If you never use the fireplace, a chimney balloon or plug can seal it further.
Trapped air keeps radiators from heating fully, so the boiler runs longer for the same comfort. A radiator key costs a few dollars.
These are the homes where heat pumps typically save the most, often cutting heating costs by a large share. Check our heat pump calculator and the rebate page for your province first.
This gently pushes warm air down from the ceiling without creating a draft. It helps most in rooms with high or vaulted ceilings.
A block heater left on all night can use several times more electricity than one on a timer. Outdoor timers rated for block heaters are inexpensive.
Each degree cooler typically raises cooling energy by a few percent. Raise it a few more degrees when you are out.
Direct sun through glass is one of the largest sources of summer heat gain. Exterior shading works best, but interior blinds still help.
A fan cools people, not rooms, so it lets you set the thermostat a couple of degrees higher. It does nothing for an empty room.
Flushing the house with cool night air delays or avoids running the air conditioner the next day. It works best in dry weather with cool nights.
Dirt, pollen and leaves on the coil reduce heat transfer and make the system work harder. Turn the power off first and use a gentle spray.
An oven adds heat your air conditioner then has to remove. Microwaves, air fryers and slow cookers use less energy and add less heat.
Older window units are often much less efficient than current models. A ductless heat pump also provides efficient heating in winter.
A basement dehumidifier running nonstop can use a surprising amount of electricity over a summer. A humidistat setting and an ENERGY STAR model both cut that.
Many tanks are set hotter than needed, which increases standby losses and scald risk. Check that the setting still suits your household and dishwasher.
Showers are typically the biggest hot water use in a home. A good low-flow head cuts hot water use noticeably without a weak spray.
A steady drip wastes heated water around the clock. A washer or cartridge replacement is usually a cheap repair.
Pipe insulation reduces heat loss and gets hot water to taps a little faster. Foam sleeves are cheap and easy to install.
Most of the energy in a warm wash goes to heating the water. Modern detergents clean well in cold water for most loads.
A heat pump water heater typically uses about half to a third of the electricity of a standard tank. It needs space and works best in a basement or utility room.
Sediment build-up insulates the water from the burner or element and can shorten tank life. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
A full load uses about the same energy as a partial one. Air drying with the door cracked saves the drying cycle's heating energy.
Restricted airflow makes the dryer run longer and is a fire risk. A clear vent can noticeably shorten drying times.
A clothes dryer is one of the larger electricity users in many homes. Air drying even part of your laundry reduces its use.
Old garage or basement fridges are often far less efficient than new models. Check with your utility for appliance pickup programs.
Colder settings use more energy without keeping food meaningfully safer. An inexpensive fridge thermometer helps you check.
Dusty coils make the compressor run longer to shed heat. The job takes a few minutes.
The yearly kWh figure lets you compare running costs between models. Our appliance calculator turns it into dollars at your provincial rate.
Covered pots boil faster and use less energy. An induction cooktop transfers heat more efficiently than a standard electric coil.
LEDs typically use about 75% to 85% less electricity and last many times longer. Start with the lights you use most.
Standby power from electronics runs all day and all year. A power bar lets you cut it with one switch or on a schedule.
Some consoles and TVs default to instant-on modes that draw power constantly. The settings change takes a few minutes.
Lights left on overnight add up over a year. Sensors also improve security by drawing attention to movement.
LED holiday lights use a small fraction of the power of old incandescent strings. A timer stops them running all night.
This one number tells you what each kWh really costs you, including delivery and fees. Use it to judge any upgrade or quote.
The best plan depends on when you use power, and switching is free. Homes that charge an EV overnight often do well on Ultra-Low Overnight.
Off-peak rates can be well below peak rates. Delay-start buttons on appliances make this easy.
Equal billing spreads your yearly cost into even monthly payments. It does not lower your total, but it removes winter spikes.
Hourly or daily data shows where your baseload sits and when spikes happen. An unexplained jump can point to a failing appliance.
Estimated bills can drift from your real usage and cause a large correction later. Many utilities let you submit your own reading.
Many programs require pre-approval or an energy assessment before work starts. Missing that step can cost you the rebate.
Typical installed costs run about $2.40 to $3.30 per watt in Canada. Comparing per watt shows whether a larger system is really a better deal.
Solar payback depends heavily on what your power costs. In provinces with very cheap hydro, payback can run longer than the panels' warranty.
Removing and reinstalling panels for a roof job adds a significant cost later. Panels typically last 25 years or more.
Winter output is low in Canada anyway, and roof work in snow is dangerous. Tilted panels usually shed snow within days of a sunny spell.
A sudden drop can point to an inverter fault, shading or a tripped breaker. Catching it early protects your savings.
Under net billing, exports may be worth less than the power you buy. Sizing closer to your daytime use can improve payback.
Air leaks are often the cheapest energy loss to fix. Air sealing typically pays back faster than most other upgrades.
Drafty doors waste heat and make rooms feel colder than the thermostat setting. Kits are cheap and install in under an hour.
An unsealed hatch is a direct path for warm air into the attic. Rigid foam glued to the top plus weatherstripping fixes it.
These small gaps add up across a house. The gaskets cost little and take seconds each to install.
Attics are usually the easiest and most cost-effective place to add insulation. Seal air leaks in the attic floor first.
Rim joists are a common source of drafts and heat loss in Canadian basements. Rigid foam and spray foam are typical fixes.
Shrink film creates an insulating air gap and stops drafts. It is a low-cost stopgap while you decide on replacements.
A registered energy advisor measures air leakage and ranks upgrades for your home. Some rebate programs require one.
Fans that vent into the attic cause moisture damage. Fans left running for hours pull out heated air.
Dirty filters reduce airflow and heat recovery. Most units have a simple slide-out core and filter.
Wavering smoke shows where air is leaking. Use the list to plan your caulking and weatherstripping.